The Corso Garibaldi and the shop of lutaio Berganzo, former master of Shinobu. Best pizzas in Lombardy at “Il Pendulo”. A new Kaurismäki film – with an Italian title? La Luce di Notta. The beautifully-behaved Japanese children much admired at dinner. Coffee at mezzo-notte in the piazza by the Duomo. The tallest church tower in Italy, and the huge octagonal baptistry. Maurizio’s ragazza from Serasino, born in Anicco, the town with the ship-shaped cowshed. (Don’t ask.)